Saturday was busy. Manuel and the kids took off in the family’s new (very used) small SUV “to weigh a pig” or “pesar un puerco”.  I took the local bus up to neighboring Fundacion. Manuel had arranged with a person he knew to show me a bicycle. After a few adjustments I decided to buy it plus pump, patches, lock and an extended seat tube. It seems like a very nice bike. It's a little small for me, but they all are. People like to ride low in the saddle so that they can stop suddenly, get out for the way and don’t have fall to far. Not many people ride long distances or at quick speeds.  The big has a Michelin label on it, but it’s clearly not made by the tire company. Other bikes on the rack included a bike with Cannondale decals, priced at about $60.  Clearly not a Cannodale.

Selection at Local Bike Store Brand Labels (Cannodale) Mean Nothing

The Chosen Bike

After I bought the bike I stopped at a bridge where I heard there was a musician that knew how to play Flauta de Millo, a very loud instrument made out of bamboo. There are a number of videos on YouTube of people playing this instrument. It makes the bagpipes (similar concept) seem tranquil. Here’s a nice example of traditional pasillo style.

It turns out the musician living next to the bridge is blind, young and very outgoing. Other musicians started showing up including another older man that was also blind and plays flauta de millo. A high school English instructor turned up with his flutes typically used in bands playing the style of Gaitas de San Jacinto. The big gaitas are more than 2 ½ feet long. His were a smaller size, but still quite big. The “fipple” or mouthpiece/wind channel is formed with bees wax and wood.  The best known players of the Gaitas are the Guiteros de San Jacinto. Here they are on YouTube.  

Prof Edgar Rivas playing Gaita

Javier Equis playing flauta (or Caña) de millo

We probably had a dozen men in the room at the peak.  We exchanged music, them playing traditional cumbias and asking me to play Christmas songs.  Navidad is a big deal here.  The flauta de millo player sold me one of his instruments. The price seemed high, but I'm sure he needed the money. I assumed that they would be easy to make, but apparently not. The one I bought was made in Barranquilla. It was a lot of fun.

Video of Musicians Gathered at the home of Jesus Escobar - Singing Cumbia San Martin

The bike ride back to Aracataca took about 20 minutes. The ride is flat, hot but with paved shoulder most of the way. When I reached the house though the sweat wouldn't stop. Unfortunately sweating doesn't help much here because of the humidity. 

Ride Home on Aracataca-Fundacion Road - Better Shoulders Here Than Most Road
A Drummond Coal Company Train Carrying Coal to the Coast passes on the Right
Palm Oil Plantations all Around

I spent most of the afternoon helping Manuel to put a sink in the bathroom. Tile walls and a lack of correct tools were a challenge, but it works. Since there is no hot water, the plumbing is less complicated. Shaving is much easier when you have a sink. Next comes a mirror.

Just when work was winding down, one more big activity was launched. Manuel's pig was tied in the carport. He decided it was time to slaughter it, and for the next several hours we killed, drained, scraped, gutted and cleaned the carcass. We put the entire thing in a freezer chest until it is time to use it. Practicing vegetarianism here is hit or miss.

We finished the day eating hot oatmeal next to the deceased pig,  I wanted to shower, but Rosa was very opposed. They have beliefs about avoiding going from hot to cold. Slaughtering a pig is hot and bathing is cold. Eating is hot, at least eating oatmeal is hot. So the proper order is to kill the pig, then eat, then bathe.